BRUGES......2nd Time Around

Thanks to our Eurostar train delays coming back from Paris in April, we had a free ticket to any of the Eurostar destinations. We chose to return to Bruges for a winter weekend. We went to Bruges last April, see links to earlier posts:

http://stephenandclaire.blogspot.com/2007/04/bruges-okay-it-has-been-while-since-we.html

http://stephenandclaire.blogspot.com/2007/04/zucchero-one-of-questions-that-has.html

Having done all the touristy stuff last time we took it easy and wandered the streets and the christmas markets as well as heading into a couple of art galleries.

Not sure what type of instrument this is, but he played it well.

Relaxing on a canal cruise

The Christmas markets and ice skating in the main square

Being Christmas the annual ice sculpture fair was on and this year it was a Harry Potter theme. Unfortunately, we hadn't thought about the -5 degree temperature and needed a warm chocolate afterwards.

All in all, a very relaxing weekend. That is until we got back to Brussels to catch the Eurostar back to London. The 9:30pm departure quickly turned into an 11:30pm departure, meaning we got home at about 1:30am. Monday was a long day at work. Now we have another free Eurostar trip. Might fly next time instead.

BRUGES - Day 2 - ZUCCHERO

One of the questions that has niggled at me for years - How do they put the letters into candy. I honestly wasn't expecting to find the answer in Bruges but took the opportunity when I could. This shop does have a website, so I could just refer to it, but there is a requirement to speak flemish. The guy that owns this shop has lived in Melbourne and was trained by an aussie in how to make Candy.

In Belgium it is tradition for the parents to send out small gifts when a child is born so the candy being made here is for a soon to be born. The parents were there as well and were nice enough to let us have a taste at the end.

I arrived slightly late so missed the pouring of the sugar onto the table. The first myth to be dispelled is that the entire mix is all one flavour. I at least thought the colours provided the flavour. The colour is then poured over a section of the sugar sheet and then stirred in. The sections are separated using a pair of steel scissors and kneaded to get a uniform colour. The colours used here were black (letters), blue and brown (outside), and white (filler). The table used here is not heated.
Creating the colours















After the colours have been kneaded and are uniform throughout, the section it is transferred to another table that is kept slightly warm to prevent solidifying. The white section was the largest and was then stretched to aerate it and double it's size. The colour intensified to be a really bright white. The size of this section made the wall hook necessary. They just did it by hand on the bench for the smaller colours.
Stretching the sugar

The letters are all made individually using the black and white sections. The actual block size is probably around 15cm long upto 4cm across. This block then gets gently stretched and lengthened to a final length of around an 2.5 x 50cm. This will be the working length of the entire piece.
The M and A blocks already lengthened. Others sections are lined up behind them on the warming bench.

A thin piece of the white is placed between each letter to differentiate them. When all the letters are finished they are placed around a sausage of white and then wrapped in white to form a roll. Once the roll is formed it needs to be kept rolling so that the heat doesn't allow it to settle. You will probably notice the 'roller' in some of the pictures. We thought he might have been in training as his stretching technique was not quite as smooth as the main guy.

The finished name before forming the roll.

The outside of this candy was striped with blue, brown and white. Each section was joined in a fairly thick slab and again gently stretched lengthways. When it was twice the working length it was cut and the new piece placed next to the original. This process was repeated again to give a sheet with four block of each colour.
Creating the outer striped layer.















This slab is then rolled around the letter roll. Which the 'roller' has been constantly moving to prevent flat bits forming. This was then rolled for a few minutes on both the warming bench and the cooling bench (right next to it). At this point the roll is still huge and you can't really understand how it all compresses down to the the 1cm round lolly.
The final roll.















From here he started to twist one end as if it were a lolly wrapper which causes the stripes to wrap around. When it looked like he was about to twist the end off, he started to gently pull the candy out over onto the cooling bench. At this point it doesn't look all that nice as the stripes are all streaky but amazingly the letters are all there. He told us that the first metre or two produced aren't all that presentable for sale.
End has been removed and about to start pulling final product.















The roll is continully moving even when he is pulling out the lengths. The lengths were cut every half metre or so to keep is manageable for final cutting and to check the letters.
Pulling out the candy.
















The cutting process happens after each length has been rolled on the cooling bench for a few minutes. Cutting basically involved the length being held over a sharp ridge and a paint scraper used as a knife from above. The candy just snaps off.
Cutting for samples.
















So that is how the letters get into candy. We did stand around in this tiny shop for about an hour, which was enough to cut the first length and provide us with a taste. We went off sightseeing and walked past a couple of hours later when they were just starting the bag the cut product. That quantity was going to make around 60 of the jars that the shop sells for around 3euro each. I don't know how big the gift bags were going to be but that couple obviously has many friends!!
The final lolly! It was a cherry flavour and very nice, but still warm.



















After getting such a great show for free we couldn't really leave without purchasing some of the product, so three jars later it was all worth it. If you do head to Bruge this shop is great and located in one of the main streets. There are big windows all around that give a good view as well. For more photos of the process check out their site - www.confiserie-zucchero.be

BRUGES

Okay, it has been a while since we have ventured anywhere, but with Steve getting a job we thought it appropriate to celebrate. We headed off to Belgium again, but this time to Bruges. It wasn't a fantastic start to arrive at the hotel at 1130pm to discover our booking had been lost. Luckily they had a cancellation and there was a room for us until we could sort it out the next morning.

In relation to our previous trip to Brussels, Bruges is much nicer in every way. The old city is the main tourist area and is almost completely surrounded by a canal (complete with windmills) that follow the now demolished town walls to almost encirle it. The main canal branches off and winds through the city. Storybook and quaint with lots of cobbled streets, squares, churches and medieval architecture best describes the area. A german squadron leader issued specific orders during WW2 to spare the town, thus preserving the history.



Steve and one of the windmills alond the ring canal.

We only had 2 days to explore this city and started by heading up the Belfry. The 300 steps up started out easy enough but became quite narrow towards the top. This used to house the treasury in the 1200's but now has a 47 bell carillon and someone to work them on a full time basis. Apart from the chiming of the clock the carilloneur played christmas carols. Not what you expect to hear in March! The view from the top was pretty impressive.
After seeing the town from above we decided to see it from the water and headed off to do the canal tour - an excellect way to see some of the more impressive houses and parks.

The weather was so nice, we decided to stay out of museums and churches and see as much of the area on foot as we could. This isn't difficult as the length of the city is only around 7km. This place has some beautiful parks and would be a great place to run and cycle around. Minniewater park complete with its swans and family of ducks was one of the best.

We did venture inside a couple of times. The first was a trip to the diamond museum. Many shiny and sparkly things kept in locked cabinets. The demonstration was interesting and the guy did fancy himself as a bit of a comedian - told one lady her wedding ring wasn't real. I think her husband was a little concerned, luckily that was just part of the routine.

Diamond cutting.Next was the chocolate museum. A really interesting exhibition covering 4 floors and even included a demo of praline filled choccys. I have to say that the samples weren't all that nice, but then mine were coffee flavoured and dark. I would have preferred the freshly made milk chocolate pralines!!!! Important to remember for next year - Bruges has a big chocolate festival for easter and while we were there a week early (stay tuned for easter in Scotland) the many chocolate shops were setting up their displays. I am in complete awe of what they can create. Steve did keep me restricted to only a small box, but i do endorse the purchased product. Oh, there is a 2 year chocolatier course in Bruges.....mmm very tempting.

Display in the Depla window.
Lastly we headed to the Halve Maan Brewery, right in the centre of town alongside a canal. This has been a brewery since the 1500's but it's current beer - Brugse Zot - only started production in 2005. We did a tour and saw a couple of Aussie cans (including XXXX) amongst the display, before being informed that beer should only ever be consumed from the matched glass, apparently different glasses will change the taste.
View from the brewery

We did cram a fair bit into our 2 days and would definitely like to go back. Oh one last thing - I found out how the letters get into candy.......

Brussels....

This is the capital city of Belgium and the head of the European Union but if you aren't a delegate or politician then you go there for chocolate and beer. Depending on who you are that may be in reverse order. We gave the Eurostar a go and would recommend it when compared to flying. Customs was quick and the stations are in the centre of the city, rather than being 40kms out of town. Travelling backwards was probably the only downside. Our first day in Brussels was Armistice Day, which is a public holiday in Belgium. Unlike Australia it was a true public holiday with all shops, museums and attractions closed. Our trusty Insight guidebook saved the day as we followed the suggested walks and checked out all the sights. The city is beautiful with all the hidden parks, but the cobblestones do get a little annoying. Lucky I don't wear heels! The one strange tradition about Brussels is the appearance of the umpires chair outside major sights.


This is La Petit Sablon with monuments to notables of the 16th century




Steve in front of the garden next to Mons de Arts


This chair was opposite the Royal Palace in yet another park.


The Grand Place is a big cobblestoned square surrounded by pubs, chocolate shops and lace shops. This area is the main touristy bit and thus the only place open over the weekend. Having been bombed and then rebuilt around the 1700 the streets off it are tiny. It is in these lanes that many of the restaurants are located as well as more choccy shops and antique shops/galleries and not to forget the undressed Mannekin Pis.


Grand Place


I gave the traditional 'mussels and fritz' a try and thought they were really salty. Not sure if that was the mussels or the broth that they were served in. The chocolate over there is second to none. Not just in taste but in look. The christmas ones were just being put in the windows. Godiva won my heart though. Those pralines are divine!! Then i found the biscuit shop. This place has moulds that are over 1m tall and made of wood and for sale. The ginger figures were fantastic and so were the macaroons.




We were a little early for the christmas markets, but there were a few small ones around the place. Steve has found the one stall just made for him. It's a pity they weren't the real thing!!