Etosha National Park

After leaving the Kalahari we went across the border into Nambia and the first thing we all noticed were mountains. The wide open plains of Botswana were behind us.

First stop was Windhoek which had a strong German feel to it. The streets signs are German and we heard more German than English in the short time we were there. It was also the most western city that we had been in over the last few weeks. Steve took the opportunity of reasonable internet speed to print his new employment contract after being offered a job back in Tanzania. We had a brief break from camping as we stayed in a hostel. It was strange sharing a room with 4 or more people and I think most people were pretty happy to reclaim the tents the next night. Another 2 people joined the truck here for the final 11 days down the Cape Town.

The drive from Windhoek to Etosha was fairly long but a quick stop at a German bakery in the tiny town of Outjo was welcomed. Nearly everyone sampled the cookies and other delights on offer.

Unlike the other game parks that we had been too, this one has proper roads that although are gravel are maintained. As a result you don't need special vehicles to experience the park. Etosha is a fenced park and is sometimes referred to as 'the Great White place of Dry Water'. This means that during the dry season (winter) many of the waterholes dry up and because of the fence the animals can't migrate to find water. As a result, the park has had to create a number of waterholes. For us it was great for viewing as the animals all congregate at the waterholes.

The campsite we were staying at (Okaukuejo) had a waterhole on the boundary that was even lit at night. All of us spent many hours sitting at the fence waiting and watching as a variety of animals came. At one point there were Lions, Rhino, Giraffe, Zebra, Elephants and Jackal all within a few minutes of each other. Surprisingly, all of the Rhino that we saw were the rare black variety and not the more numerous white. The names are also unrelated to their colour, as the only difference is in the shape and position of the horns. There was one very annoying photographer that came equipped with the biggest lens we have seen and a flood light. Jacques ended up going over to him and strongly suggesting that he stop shining the light in the Lion's eyes.Black Rhino

This giraffe stood at the edge of the clearing for over 4 hours because there were Lions growling in the distance. Apparently a herd of 18 Elephants made it feel safe enough to venture to the water's edge

We did 3 game drives in the park and it was nice to be in Kwando for them. Jacques joined us in the truck and set about imparting all his 'game ranger' knowledge. This was when we realised just how lucky we were with our tour leaders. Although it was a little information overload it was great to hear someone so excited about the wildlife. This was what we had wanted in the Kenya and Tanzania. As well as describing the the basic differences between male and female, Jacques also explained the methods in which the animals hunted (or evaded) and looked for water.

The Zebra here have brown stripes as well

Managed to see a Black Rhino during daylight as well.

Kudu (we also had this for dinner a few times!)

This couple were having a nap next to the road...

and these Springbok were on the other side

A Jackal managed to isolate this Springbok from the group but it was too quick to be caught

At one of the larger water holes Kwando's engine suddenly decided not to work. Jacques and JP very nervously got out and made a quick fix to the water line before driving us directly to the nearest campsite for some more permanent repairs. The rest of us kept a very close eye on the hundreds of animals that were drinking at the waterhole, including Zebra, Lion, Kudu, Springbok, Giraffe and Elephant and Ostrich.

When we reached the Etosha Pan (120km long dry lakebed) we all disregarded the sign and jumped out for some artistic photos. We aren't sure how often it sees water but when it does the lake is only about 10cm deep and supports fish and frogs that have been dormant beneath the salt crust.

Etosha was definitely a highlight of the trip so far. Not just for the amount of wildlife that we were able to see at each of the waterholes, but for the commentary that Jacques and JP provided along the way.